A Guelph realtor advises: one positive sign of spring in Ontario is wet basements! Follow this advice I learned in a recent workshop on basements for Guelph realtors.

Tip #1: basements were never intended to be finished living areas.

Tip #2: after you finish the basement, expect future moisture problems.

Time was basements would be left ‘to cure’ for a couple of years before finishing, so cracks because of shifting or other moisture trouble would be noticeable and repaired before drywall was installed. These days builders offer to finish it for you promptly.

As the snow melts you might have surface water running down the foundation walls. Add that moisture to already water-saturated land being forced into your foundation wall by hydrostatic pressure and you’ve got a difficulty. Water normally follows the path of least resistance so if you happen to have cracks, holes or shifting blocks or bricks in your foundation it’s possible you’ll discover water, or at minimum dampness, within your basement. When the ground beneath the footings freezes the soil may expand and make the foundation to heave and water always finds a way through. Downspouts that run straight to the foundation, poor grading where the soil runs down in the direction of the foundation, foundation plantings, blocked or damaged perimeter drainage systems and exterior damp-proofing that may be no longer reliable can all promote such problems.

Exactly what difference can your foundation create?

Rubble stone foundations were common pre WW 1 and were most cost effective, because the stone was gathered on the cleared land. Basements with stone foundations were clearly never designed to become finished liveable space. That was the place that the coal, potatoes and preserves were stored. There’s a high risk of moisture difficulties with a rubble stone foundation as well as being an on-going maintenance matter.

From about 1910 to 1935 brick was widely used. Bricks swell after they get wet and this can help in controlling leakage but expect dampness in the basement, simply because eventually bricks also can shift and crumble. Then from about 1940 to 1970 concrete blocks were frequently utilized for foundations specially when owners were doing it themselves. Once built correctly, with rods properly inserted and blocks filled with concrete, these kinds of foundations have withstood the test of time. However, it’s impossible to know, once it’s built, whether or not it has these items. Generally if the blocks are hollow, water may fill them and the blocks can begin shifting.

Wood foundations have never been widespread in southern Ontario, therefore wouldn’t be a consideration for Guelph property, however they are used much more in western Canada. Poured concrete foundations have been put into use ever since the early 1900s and are still regarded one of the most reliable, regardless of frequent problems with cracks. Even so, older concrete foundations where river rock and sizeablelarge lumps of gravel and stone were used tend not to hold together as well. The concrete really should be poured completely at the same time for the best adherence.

Building methods and components have improved with time. Clay weeping tiles which frequently moved and became clogged have been replaced by continuous plastic pipe with drainage holes in addition to a geo-textile sock over that filters out sand and silt. A bitumous (tar) coating was once painted onto the exterior foundation parging, although it would crack and wear off after a while. Today a drainage layer of corrugated plastic sheeting is commonly used to maintain the soil away from foundations walls, creating an air space between the foundation wall and the backfill dirt, which conducts water right down to the weeping system. There is also a peel and stick tar-like material that isn’t usually applied during construction but utilized as a retrofit.

Solving the trouble:

Dealing with water and moisture concerns with your basement is usually a process of elimination. Start with the most self-evident culprits. Check out surface water drainage. Are the gutters stuffed with leaves and debris and overflowing when it rains? Do the downspouts extend as a minimum 10 feet from your house, or if they enter the ground do they really drain into the footing drainage system? Does the paved drive or foundation planting beds incline toward the foundation? If pavement adjoins or abuts your house wall is it correctly sealed or has the sealant begun to fail? Sewer connection problems, damaged sump pump and window wells that pressure water in to the foundation are other considerations.

Frequently it is as simple as a $5 fix to provide an extension on the downspout or it can be $20,000 to dig up the complete foundation and replace the weeping tiles. You can find companies that specialise in resolving basement moisture situations and some guarantee their work. The MLS listing will not be likely to show you if you can expect such challenges. This really is another reason to have a qualified home inspector look at your house before investing.

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