Endless lines of vehicles wind their way along the broad avenues, filling the air with exhaust. Mexico City appears unconcerned. At first glance, visitors may be overwhelmed by Mexico City’s noise, dirt and chaos, but look again.

Mexico City is the largest metropolis on the American continent and it is still growing. Despite the problems that inevitably accompany unrestrained growth, there are superb architectural treasures hidden behind the rather dull facades of this huge city.

No other Latin American city boasts as many baroque churches, monasteries and colonial palaces. It also has a number of acclaimed modern buildings, some of which are decorated with monumental paintings by the famous Mexican muralists, and world-class museums house still more art and treasure.

The eagle, the snake and the cactus.
In 1325, the Aztecs, who called themselves the Mexica, migrated into what is now central Mexico, where they founded their capital city, Tenochtitlan. They had chosen the site well, with a little help. According to legend, the Aztecs received a vision that told them to wander until they found an eagle perched on a cactus with a snake in its talons.

In the Valley of Mexico at an elevation of more than 2,000 metres they came upon this very scene in a swampy area scattered with lakes and islands. From a strategic standpoint, the location was ideal. They colonized the islands in the middle of a shallow lake, which protected their settlement well. The wandering Mexica had finally settled down.

Later, they built dams and causeways between the islands, which developed into a complex hydraulic system with canals, drawbridges and sluices. Tenochtittan grew in size to cover more than 13 square kilometres. The Aztecs ultimately conquered the entire high valley by force of arms, and soon controlled nearly all of modern-day Mexico, as well as other parts of Central America.

Hernan Cortes and the Fall of the Empire
The precipitous fall of the Aztec Empire began in 1519 when Hernan Cortes landed on the Gulf Coast of Mexico with just a few men. What Cartes achieved is incredible. With a small force, a few horses and indomitable will, not to mention a good dose of brutality and recklessness, he subdued an entire empire. His total command consisted of 500 Spanish soldiers, 16 mounted fighters, 6 cannons and 400 Indian mercenaries. The Aztec population he confronted numbered in the hundreds of thousands.

On 8 November 1519 the Aztecs’ fate was sealed. The Aztec ruler Moctezuma II received Cortes unarmed, possibly because he thought Cortes was the god Quetzalcoatl. This was an invitation to disaster. The Spaniards quickly took Moctezuma hostage and massacred the assembled priests and nobles.

The Aztecs were at first able to push back the interlopers and force them to retreat. Unfortunately, this only postponed their demise by a few years. In 1521, Cortes moved in with fresh troops, completely overwhelming the Aztec forces. The Spanish rulers then built their own city with churches and palaces on the foundations of the old one. Most of the lake was drained, as more and more land was needed. Tenochtitlan disappeared under a Spanish city. Parts of it, such as the Tempio Major, have since been excavated by archaeologists and are on view again after hundreds of years of obscurity.

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